Paris 2000
 by Bianca Rossini

Paris á l’impromptu

I just got back from Paris - France where I was for ten days. Here are some unforgettable snapshots of my trip.

The Prince of Marroco was visiting Paris the same week. The French and Marrocan flags were lined up along the corridor of the Champs Elysees. In the middle of the Arc de Triomphe a huge French flag seemed to be suspended in the air, dancing like a nymph. Depending on the angle, you could center the full moon in the middle of the arch, just above the left side of the flag.

Wednesday - Saint Germain des Pres - eleven at night - quiet and almost empty compared with other times. Looking for a restaurant. We almost chose "Les Assassins" just because of the name, but the cigarette smoking was so thick you could not see passed the second table. We opted for a restaurant even smaller, typical of the neighborhood, "La Brocherie." It was delicious, especially the small talk at the table next to us, three man and one girl. The man talked among themselves, the girl was mostly silent and sometimes she smiled. They practiced the art of talking about everything and nothing at the same time.

All of sudden the whole table was talking in their cellular.

The dessert was delicious, my childhood favorite: flan.

Thursday in Saint Germain des Pres, our friend Monique took us to a VIP Party at Le Deux Magots to celebrate the signing of the Presevation and Artistic Heritage of both sister cities: St. Germain in Paris and Soho in New York. Exhibitions and Performance Art all around the area. Unforgettable moment at Place Furstenberg, sponsored by The Delacroix Museum, where lots of people watched Arab dancers in costumes perform surrounded by colorful fabrics and props, Whether you were inside the Channel boutique, or on the street the neighborhood was full of creative energy. The Parisians like the Cariocas in that sense are very similar- no rain will alter their fun.

At the church in Saint Germain a recital of music and Flamengo dancing at 8:00PM. But we had reservations for dinner at Michel Rostandg's last venture which I would not recommend except for the oysters.

Favorite dinner in Paris: At our friend Monique Teil's apartment which like her hotel George Sands in Courbevoie reflects her feminine, romantic and artistic spirit. Not only the Fish au Gros Sel was divine but we were in the best of company: Monique, Brigitte who sang an opera in Chinese, Michelle, Gerard, Robert and Philippe. We danced, sang, improvised poetry and laughed throughout the night.

 

 

 
From left to right: Bianca, Brigitte, Philippe, Michelle and Robert
Monique ready to serve a "Fish au Gros Sel"

Saturday I went for a walk on Rue Saint Honore. My friend had insisted that I went to see "Colette", a new trendy store in Paris. I liked the arquitecture, very minimalist, the people dressed like in LA, all in black. Nobody was buying anything. Easy to understand: a stupid little skirt cost US$945.00. As a matter of fact everything was around that price and higher. The restaurant underneath was simple and slick, but it reminded me too much of LA and I decided to continue walking.

As usual there was so much to see, smile, appreciate and laugh...I visited several stores. I always like to visit the building where Versace's store is located. I had a light lunch in a Bistro. From my table I could see different perspectives of the intersecting avenues with people walking, biking, fire trucks with sirens but nobody rushing, Japanese people in groups, some Brazilians, Italians...and on and on.

I walked up to La Comedie Francaise to visit the building, and the bell started to announce the beginning of the play "L'Avare" by Moliere. I bought the last ticket available, at the very top, in the galerie. When I went in the play had just started. I discovered an empty seat which was blocked by a women's coat and purse. Expecting an air of dissatisfaction typically French I asked permission and took my seat. Surprise- there was no bad attitude. On my right side there were two Japanese girls, and from the heads of the people below and around I could observe the different people in the audience: man, women, old, young, children, foreigners, students. The theater was full. It was only 2:00 o'clock in the afternoon on a Saturday. Although I knew the play, it was hard for me to understand the dialogue. My French is not that good. But I was having so much fun... The atmosphere, the gorgeous theater even in the dark, the concentration of the audience, their reaction, the elegant and minimalist set design, the wardrobe, and even the over dramatic French style of acting, which reminded me of the Latin style in general.

After an hour I walked on the red carpeted stairs to enjoy the silence and the entrance where carved in marble were the names of Moliere, Racine among other genius of the French theater.

I went back to the Rue Saint Honore, on the other side of the street, after all I wanted to complete my promenade. I crossed the street, divided by a fountain gushing musical notes with birds jumping around it. I felt full as if I had left a banquet. I thought to myself: "I couldn't have planed it better", But as usual Paris was constantly surprising me ...

On my way back I passed in front of a church ( not the Polish one) which the facade was under renovation. Before I could decide whether or not I was going in, I had already gone up the stairs and entered the church.

As soon as I entered I heard the voices of 60 children from the age of 6 to 17 years old filled the Church with melodious music. I felt as if I was listening angels sing. It was so in tune and beautiful that it touched my heart instantly. I seated in the middle row. There were only a few people in the church besides the conductor, the pianist, and the choir. Without knowing why tears flooded my eyes. I had to make an effort not to sob, so intense was the beauty I was feeling. In the end one of the students soloists sang "Ave Maria". It was as if I was in heaven, floating among the stars. Pure Magic. The teacher of the group came and invited me to attend the recital in the evening. I asked where were the kid's parents from, and she answered: France, Tunisia, Marroco, Japan..."The world is becoming one big country", I thought. I thanked Scott Alan Prouty, the maestro from Connecticut who told me that he had come to Paris only for a few months, but ended up staying and creating the "Choeur d'Enfants de Creteil".

I continued my walk to La Madeleine where a huge red billboard promoting a theatrical play called "Jesus" blocked the front of the Church. When I went in I saw a fat priest from New York who was studying in Paris. He laughed at my question. "You are telling me that you heard on CNN that this church was being sold to the Universal Church in Brazil? Hey Nun, listen to this... It will be an interesting topic tonight when I have dinner with the cardinal, he will enjoy hearing his story. I left the church not knowing if I should feel relieved with the priests' news or irritated with CNN. I chose relieved, after all what would be of Paris if the government started to sell its monuments?

As I walked down the stairs of La Madeleine I thought of how the fat priest was happy when I asked him why was the church advertising the play, he had answered that he was glad because it attracted a lot of people to the church and besides it had been approved by the cardinal and the minister. To my sadness he said that after the billboard is removed a bronze cross will be placed right at the entrance of the church. "Too bad", I thought, "Napoleon's arquitect must be turning on his grave when he sees what changes they are making to the facade of his building."

I visited the Louvre Museum and as always it was hard to decide where to start when there is 30.000 works of art to look at. So I did the obvious. I started with my favorites Italian paintings and marble sculptures.

Sunday - Rain - Sunshine - Rain

Favorites at the Musee D'Orsay
Favorite room: Salon de fete
Favorite sculpture: Salome (bronze) by Jules Desbois and La Danse Guerreire (marble) by Victor Segoffin.
Favorite paintings: All the impressionists
Favorite moment: Not knowing where to look. The paintings of Pissaro and Renoir or a hale storm that changed the skies above Le Seine. Both choices beautiful.
Favorite place to rest: The Musee d'Orsay restaurant.1900's decor with fresco ceilings, a pianist playing Debussy. While sipping tea, I was overwhelmed with the beauty outside the room as well. A beautiful rainbow layed over, right in the middle of the giant carrousel. Afterwards the sun changed positions and each metal chair in the carrousel reflected a brilliant green, like a tiara of emeralds.

Other surprises: Pink huge roses and yellow flowers everywhere in the midle of March - early spring in Paris!!!! Champs Elysees looked magnificent.

Favorite dessert: black currant and lemon sorbet at Nostalgie in Courboevoie. The chef goes to the market everyday and based on what he finds he then designs his menu.

Discovered new romantic late night place- great atmosphere and beauty- The restaurant and bar at Hotel Costes at Rue Saint Honore.

Paris Spring fashion was full of colors, and Indian influences. Corlors in Vogue: Pink, Red, Fuscia, Orange and lots of 70's fashion revival.

Last but not least we saw the jewel of Paris lit with thousand sparkling lights, celebrating the new Millennium- La Tour Eiffel

Au revoir - Bianca Rossini